32 replies to this topic

[NJA82]

At the end of the day buy what you want, if you dont want to listen to my advice dont, go buy a $100 hybrid copy.... there is a reason they are $100 and if you are seriously stupid enough to think that its going to do the job of a high end one for $100 then thats kool.

Quote

 in the 68mm range BLITZ is my choice, they use a in-house designed core that has so many features i could write a book on it...

I stand by what i say... i love my blitz cooler and they really arent THAT expensive... we are driving performance cars arent we? money shouldnt be an option over performance.

[DECEIT]

As the saying goes... you get what you pay for

[MorganV8]

don't coolers usually have what they have been pressure tested to and the amount they flow?

[ferret]

I think I will go a flash murry one but that will have to waite for the money tree to gain anough for another harvest.

Thanks guy's.

[mr-squiggle]

why dont you get the aps cooler for the 350z?... check it out http://www.airpowersystems.com.au/350z/int...intercooler.htm

[NJA82]

^^ hell yeah i like the look of that cooler setup. That is really well designed. Trust APS once again. Expect a nice hefty price tag on that one... around the $2G mark for the full kit. But well worth it i can tell you that.. APS dont make anything that isnt good.

[R32 GT-R]

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You can find hybrids for 100 dollars now, cheap as!!!

You can buy hybrid COPIES for around 100 bucks, not genuine hybrid. Hybrid do NOT make bar and plate coolers any more only tube and fin. The Hybrid coolers the guy matt quoted from was talking about genuine Hybrid, not the fake/copy ones. The copies are bar and plate which hybrid discontinued a while ago, they are ALL tube and fin coolers now.

[mr-squiggle]

S14 200SX said:

^^ hell yeah i like the look of that cooler setup. That is really well designed. Trust APS once again. Expect a nice hefty price tag on that one... around the $2G mark for the full kit. But well worth it i can tell you that.. APS dont make anything that isnt good.

its a well designed isnt it?!?! and it would be really good for your setup, because of the 2 turbo's and 1 intake... if i was doing what you were doing i would go for that intercooler. i would rather spend the money and get something better that will last... and you can show it off too

[ferret]

bloody oath...thats flash!

[gtp_vlbt1]

a pair of SMIC coolers would be ideal if you have no room,

on aus300zx, and twinturbo.net there has been several shit fights about FMIC Vs SMIC,


a decent pair of SMIC would be ideal for your kind of setup

most of the top performing cars use both, so make up your own decision


for a 300zx a pair of thick Trust cores do the job very nicely, i went for a huge fmic, as im planning to run my air intakes under each guard eventaully

[Graham]

Taking into account that you are running two turbos into one hole (so to speak) i would be going for a front mount. but not the side entry ones. i would be doing the twin bottom entry and single outlet at the top. ie where the rad cap is. or of to the side. not to bag you or take the piss out of you. but it looks very much like a home diy job? if so the MOST important part to "your" build is knowledge. its not really going to be parts as such more like how you use your parts to the best of your capabitlies.

twin smic way to much piping. have a look at eddie testicle's car holden v8 vc? that sort of design of cooler design would best suit the twin turbo v engine setup "I" think

graham

[cal-a-kid]

Run methanol and a hot pipe

the intercooler!!!

Dean

This post has also been edited for swearing. One more time in this thread and it equals a ban im affraid to say. This is not Off topic or an NWS thread so keep it clean.... SIMPLE!

[david kriedeman]

Some quick "DO IT YOURSELF" INTERCOOLER EFFICIENCY TESTS:
USING temp. probe "IN" the inlet hose or pipe to your intercooler, i use my FLUKE MULTIMETER WITH THE TEMP.PROBE YOU GET AS AN OPTION OR STANDARD WITH THE HIGHER LEVEL METERS.
DO a dyno pull or a hard HIGH BOOST BLAST SOMEWHERE getting a passenger to monitor the air temp.
If you have aftermarket injection most systems employ an AIR CHARGE TEMP sensor, so measuring the air temp after passing through the cooler is easy in DATA LOG or live on screen monitoring.
Simply compare the 2 values, BEFORE & AFTER.
If you dont have aftermarket injection, just use the multimeter temp prob again on the outlet side.
To get a more accurate reading as your not checking the temps at the same time,allow engine to cool back to the temp it was at when you checked the inlet air charge side of the cooler.
You have to do this as there will be a difference in values due to latent heat build up (heat soak) after your first run.
To check for PRESSURE DROP.
Most of you guys will have a boost guage on your car.
These make EXCELENT pressure drop meters.
Simply fit up an adaptor (vacuum barb etc) to the in side of the cooler and one on the out side.
Get some vacuum hose long enough to reach the 2 barbs.
Disconnect the BOOST GUAGE at its source,normally the inlet plenum,block off the port that you removed the boost guage hose from so you dont have a vacuum leak.
Connect the guage to the in side of the cooler and go for a full boost run.
Take note of boost pressure, now put boost guage onto out side of cooler,note pressure.
SUBTRACT THE OUT VALUE FROM THE IN VALUE AND THERES YOUR PRESSURE DROP VALUE.
EG: 14 PSI IN - 12.5 PSI OUT = 1.5PSI PRESSURE DROP.
""""NB""" DONT FORGET TO BLOCK OFF THE PORTS YOU ARE NOT MEASURING.
ESPECIALLY AFTER TESTING AND YOU HAVE HOOKED UP THE BOOST GUAGE BACK TO THE ENGINE.
YOU can also use this method to find out EXHAUST BACK PRESSURE VALUES.
PUT FITTINGS BEFORE AND AFTER EACH EXHAUST COMPONENT,EG: B4 THE CAT CONVERTOR,AFTER THE CONVERTOR, B4 THE MUFFLER,AFTER THE MUFFLER,B4 THE RESONATOR,AFTER THE RESONATOR ETC.
BY DOING THIS YOU GET TO SEE WHICH COMPONENT OF YOUR EXHAUST SYSTEM HAS THE MOST RESTRICTION.
WHEN IT COMES TO A BOOSTED ENGINE THE BEST BACK PRESSURE IS """NO BACK PRESSURE"""
PRESSURE IS A RESTRICTION TO FLOW.
WHEN doing the EXHAUST BACK PRESSURE TEST make sure you insulate the sample hose so it DOESNT MELT.