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R33 GTS-t boost


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#21 UDLOOZ

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Posted 30 May 2006 - 07:04 PM

i think he might have been having a joke about you saying you got street cred!!!??? :P
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#22 SiKnEsS

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Posted 30 May 2006 - 08:02 PM

trust me he aint jokin, he's bein a tooley, he knows he is, all in good fun, my ute obviously had street cred if everyone around town knows were it was from and wat was in it.
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#23 33_skyline

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Posted 31 May 2006 - 08:54 PM

If you want to turn up the boost I would recommend the following first

Intercooler
turbo back exhaust (this along will hit the 9psi limit on the stock computer)
coils (the original are usually fu/cked and don't burn fuel properly)
ecu (to get over the 9psi boost cut, there is this new product for around $400 dollars that controls boost and fuel which works quit well)
fuel pump (anything around 200kw at the flywheel will max out factory fuel pump)

This should get you about 195rwkw on 13psi (factory turbo won't take anything over 14psi)

Hopefully you won't fu/ck the turbo and have the car in a shed like I do, to see what I am doing go to my profile it is all listed there, this should get me somewhere between 250 - 300 rwkw on 22 - 24psi as long as the internals hold up.

#24 SiKnEsS

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Posted 31 May 2006 - 09:32 PM

so ure sayin that it will give me 30rwkw if i do all that, they have 187@the fly standard 162@the wheels
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#25 33_skyline

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Posted 31 May 2006 - 09:51 PM

Yeah that is what I am saying, I am taking a guess (it is only about a 3psi inrease) but it wouldn't be much over that cause mayby max of about 210rwkw. that is also why I am putting a new turbo because steel wheels are much better (it will have more power at 14 psi with a steel wheel instead of ceremic) on instead of replacing it with the spare one I have.

If you want to boost the stock up give is a 75 shot of NOS that should get you over 250kw

#26 SiKnEsS

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Posted 31 May 2006 - 09:54 PM

k kool as, il have a hell of alot more than that by the time im finnished lol
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#27 33_skyline

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Posted 31 May 2006 - 09:59 PM

I can take you for a spin when it is done should be going in for intercooler piping this week or next.... it is the last thing to be done before the final fiting and tune.

#28 gtp_vlbt1

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Posted 01 June 2006 - 04:20 AM

with the turbo dont mess around just go for a GT35/40r, those T3 ball bearing turbos are shit house, they are ok if you want to boost around in a stocker, but when it comes time to do some serious work, they are best left sitting in the junk pile

to get rid of the boost cut you;d want a "turbosmart boost cut defender/fuel cut defender".

for the ecu, dr drift is the main man to see,

if you had a R32 GTR i have a genuine Kakimoto racing ecu here, socketed e.t.c ;)

#29 sinister

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Posted 01 June 2006 - 07:15 AM

fuel cut defenders are a waste of money, there is a fuel cut for a reason.... so you don't go blowing things up. Do it properly and remove the stock ECU and go aftermarket, and stay away from turbosmart.

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#30 SLAPPA

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Posted 01 June 2006 - 08:37 AM

well i say get a blower.
be diffent
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#31 SiKnEsS

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Posted 01 June 2006 - 06:25 PM

SLAPPA said:

well i say get a blower.
be diffent
why would i sell my lancer 2 buy a turbo car? and put a blower on it, honestly lol, id chuck one on the lancer if it wasnt a nancy boy ricer lol
id put a blower on the ute though
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#32 Turbo Tim

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Posted 01 June 2006 - 08:57 PM

On my barge (r33) im planning to do the following:
Finish exhaust (hks catback there now).
Add front mount
Replace fuel pump
Up boost to 9/10psi, if AFR's are still safe.

That seems to be good for a decent power increase. I have no desire to change the stock ecu or turbo (unless it craps itself, then it will be nothing more than a steel wheel highflow or something else bolt on I can get cheaply). I like my reliability and response. I dont see the point of a silly big turbo if you cant use it. I really want a lot more torque in between 2.5k-5k, I just feel its a bit gutless in there (still running the stock 2 level boost solenoid, with its great 5psi <4.5k rpm). Bragging power figures doesnt do much for me.

Where is this r33 coming from?

#33 SiKnEsS

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Posted 02 June 2006 - 04:45 PM

dunno yet, the one i planned on getting was thrown out the window cause the owner decided to tell me it had a heap of rust after id put a deposit on it, stupid me lol
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#34 Turbo Tim

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Posted 02 June 2006 - 05:24 PM

Ahh ok.
Whats the price and specs you are after, i got mine from a local dealer. He has 15 coming in next week thats all. All fresh off boat.

Mine was a 95 series 1.5 with airbag, abs, 17"s, hks 3.5" cat back, standard m-spec kit, pod filter, lowered springs, strut brace, assortment of jap stereo and a turbo timer. Legit 86 000km, price was 14.5k on the road with 4 new tyres including stamp duty etc, works out to about 14.1k for a private sale if I had bought it that way. Most seem to be about that price anyway.

Since then another 2 northerners have bought cars from the same dealer, one was very happy, the other had a few minor issues that got sorted, but i didnt check the car out so couldnt really advise.

#35 SiKnEsS

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Posted 02 June 2006 - 05:46 PM

im chasin a series2 m-spec gts-t, got my eye on one locally, so will c wat happens
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#36 Turbo Tim

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Posted 02 June 2006 - 06:40 PM

Yeah series 2 are nice :)

#37 Mr HKS

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Posted 03 June 2006 - 03:50 PM

Guys,

Stock internals are good for 250rwkw depending on the engines previous life but no garentee it will last at that level for long.

#38 Turbo Tim

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Posted 03 June 2006 - 11:06 PM

I think a lot of people just expect too much from there cars anyway!! I dont understand why everyone assumes they have to get the absolute most possible on stock internals, do you really need 250-300rwkw, in a car which is most likely going to be used for street and bragging duties?

#39 Turbo Tim

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Posted 06 June 2006 - 12:21 PM

And I guess safe is only safe for so long. I guess you dont want to be at the point where one little boost spike or accident will result in dead motor. You hear of it happening a lot.





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